Introduction

The Chanel Suit was an iconic piece of history that defined women’s escape from clothing expectations. Coco Chanel created this look to be fashionable and efficient as the suits were traditionally made of woven textile with details of silk and different hardware ^[1]. The suit would consist of a matching jacket with long sleeves and a knee-length skirt, as depicted above in the outfit on the right. These suits were first constructed with fabrics found in the menswear department to embody the sporty look and acted as almost a “uniform” for women that could function in any season and for all occasions ^[2]. Many celebrities, such as Jackie Kennedy, emphasized that the Chanel suit was a closet staple. As Chanel brought in these male-dominant materials and styles, she began to complete her goal of diffusing what society had built up for the expectancy of women’s dress. Mastering fashion and function, she would break down the long-established look of multiple layers of tight and constricting garments, introducing concepts attractive to women who were beginning work or who were tired of dressing to these certain standards.

Historical Fashion

Many are familiar with the figurine of a woman wearing a tightly strung corset, creating the ideal hourglass shape for a woman for multiple centuries. The use of the corset changed between these centuries as women originally wore them to maintain a feminine image and soon transitioned corsets to embrace the idea of modernity. ^[3] These corsets restricted women’s mobility, crushing their ribs, making it quite difficult to breathe, and giving control to others, usually men, as women could not manage with these limitations or take part in any physical activity. Straight front corsets ^[4] and hobble skirts ^[5] added to the uncomfortable lack of movement as well.

These expectations for women’s shape, figure, and fashion choices compelled Chanel to create her freeing pieces defying what society pictures as the perfect female. To begin, fashion is consumption, depicting one’s identity, and creating a specific culture. Previously, clothing did not have this value as it was viewed as something everyone must wear to cover up and protect, rather than what it soon came to be: gender and self-expression. Clothing is also how one conveys their social class and contributes to this material world. ^[6] Choosing an outfit or pieces of clothing every day is freedom individuals are granted and is an intimate and personal choice that we choose to display publicly. ^[7] This takes us into the exploration of Parisian haute couture ^[8], which defined fashion for the rest of the world. This type of fashion was established by Charles Frederick Worth^[9] who also broke gender barriers by being one of the first renowned male dressmakers, a position usually dominated by females. ^[10] At the beginning of the twentieth century, Chanel redefined haute couture by incorporating different materials, shapes, and designs. Gabrielle Chanel ^[11] grew up in extreme poverty and was born out of wedlock in a hospice; her mother passed by the time she was 12, and her father consequently abandoned the children, forcing Chanel into an orphanage. ^[12] Her humble upbringing contrasted with many of the previous figures in “haute couture” in France. While she learned how to sew from nuns ^[13], those in the elite fashion industry mastered the important trade by working as skilled apprentices through multiple fashion houses. ^[14] Chanel herself wore masculine clothing inspired by both the men she had spent time with: Etienne Balsan ^[15] and “Boy” Capel. ^[16] Through these men, she began her appreciation for luxury, developed her ideas for incorporating men’s style, received financial assistance to launch her boutiques, and established a clientele list from high society across France. She created simple yet elegant hats that were popular among the wealthy women and soon created haute couture, specializing in the use of jersey fabric that had never been utilized before. Not only did she switch to an alternative fabric, but she began by incorporating less fabric in contrast to the previous decades where women were adorned with multiple layers of clothing, something irrational and awkward. ^[17] Her first couture collection launched in the fall of 1916, directly in the middle of World War I, when fabric options were limited, leaving her with jersey material. ^[18] During the time of war when the majority of men had left to fight, there was a power dynamic shift as women were faced with filling roles usually occupied by men. Many used Chanel’s pieces as they were thrown into the workforce and had nothing to wear that would allow them to work in these physically demanding positions. Previously, the French police outlawed the use of trousers by women in public by enacting the decree of 7 November 1800. The law was strictly enforced throughout the entire century until feminists arose, discovering their voice. ^[19] Officials deemed those who broke the act as someone who was attempting to cross-dress and commit fraud as they were taking advantage. ^[20] Trousers and pants eventually became more accepted as women trickled into the workforce during the war, as they could not complete the assigned tasks in their typical garments.

Similar movements towards a less constructed women’s dress were occurring in America as well with the introduction of the new designs made for a variety of activities and jobs. There were semi-fitted bodices that enhanced the natural waistline, form-fitting bias-cut skirts, insets, and wide sleeve holes made of cotton and lightweight linen. ^[21] The Mother Hubbard ^[22] was a popular option in the late nineteenth century as it was made to free women from corsets, identical reasoning to Chanel. ^[23]Not as fashionable or intricate as Chanel’s pieces, the Mother Hubbard was an everyday piece that one could wear while working or maintaining the house. The introduction of the dress occurred around the same time as the dress reform movement ^[24], working against the physical barrier clothing gave to women. The females in this development in America also chose to not adopt men’s clothes but rather create their versions based on the styles and materials, leading to physical and social liberation.

Conclusion

Through her sportier decisions with women’s fashion, Chanel reimagined femininity creating comfortable and liberating clothing that was unique, trendy, and glamorous. By merging these masculine designs with her clothing dreams, it reiterated the equality of men and women. Chanel’s clothing inspired women to escape the housewife’s expectations and prove their capabilities in the outside working world. Through her work, clothing transitioned from acting as a submissive item to culture to rather a piece of an aesthetic and social differentiation. ^[25]By consuming her products, one became subject to this new booming world of fashion and contributed to the change of women’s clothing.